Goodness, it's the 1st April already. We've been back in UK since 2nd March. Since then we've been really busy catching up with friends and relatives and trying to get organised so that we can go back to Portugal once and for all. The plan is to return to Portugal as soon as possible. Before then though, we have to get the house ready to sell, and then actually sell it! We are hoarders, so we have to get rid of loads of stuff and then redecorate several rooms. We are also working our allotment as we are happiest when we are growing some veggies.
Here is a summary of our last few weeks spent in Portugal.
Rain stopped exploration in the main. And then there was that big storm on Saturday the 27th February that brought down trees. We woke up to find that we had no electricity but apart from that the cottage seemed to be okay. We had arranged to travel to meet up with friends that day, and despite the weather we braved it. We drove over towards Arganil, watching the trees along the lanes with trepidation. There were signs that trees had fallen and had been cleared quickly, and the roads were littered with branches and other debris for the whole journey. We met Kathy and Keith at the Mendes Bar. The bar had no electricity either. Kathy had made us delicious chocolate cakes with icing topping as a farewell treat. Despite the bar being unable to serve coffees etc, it was full of Portugese chattering away.
We didn't actually get the electricity back on until 1630 hours on the 28th Feb. The reason why we had no power, and also the neighbouring villages, was because a pylon had fallen down on the N17. Our big clean up of the cottage was hard work without the vacuum cleaner. Twig seemed to know something was afoot as we packed our stuff away and cleaned the place through. We hauled the rugs outside on the varanda and beat them with brooms like the Portugese women do.
Very early on Monday 1 March we set off for home, driving up to Santander to catch the ferry for a 23-24 hour crossing.
The voyage was uneventful, thank goodness! We were dreading travelling in case we ended up meeting the storms we had experienced on the Saturday. All the rivers that we saw on our way through Spain had burst their banks. The Picos de Europa were thick with snow.
When we arrived at Santander it was gloriously warm and sunny with a gentle breeze. On our journey the Bay of Biscay was relatively calm, it felt just like being on the Witches' Hat.
Back in the UK and we hadn't gotten far before we met our first traffic cones. Then more, then more. How we hadn't missed them for six months! Our journey home was punctuated all the way with road works. About 40 miles from home we could resist no longer and we scouted out a chip shop. Slavering we were, imagining those hot salty vinegary chips. And they were horrible! Expensive and horrible. Nothing like what we had envisaged, or indeed, cooked for ourselves while in Portugal.
That's one of the things we have found since we've been back. The choice is overwhelming in the supermarkets. But nothing compares to Portugal. Everything we craved has left us disappointed (apart from cheese!). Nothing tastes as delicious as much as we thought it did unless we cook it from scratch using raw and fresh ingredients like we did when we were in Portugal.
This is the final entry for this blog as our six month Portugal Adventure is now over but after all the rain we may be escaping to Tenerife for some sunshine! We may start a sister blog to record the process we go through when house hunting and buying over in Portugal. We are looking forward to going back.
Thursday 1 April 2010
Monday 22 February 2010
Gouveia
Yesterday after lunch we had a drive up to Gouveia to do a geocache. We found the cache just in time as a heavy rain shower started. We didn't have time to explore Gouveia but it is definitely worth a proper look around from the little we saw. It sits in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela and is not as remote as we had previously thought. We spotted the "turismo" that we intend to visit, we also saw supermarkets such as Intermarche and Lidl. Gouveia seems an ideal base for exploring the mountains or lowlands on foot.
The other reason we drove up to Gouveia was to try and find a parking place for the PR2 and PR3 walks that are mentioned in a link on our "Hidden Treasures" post (links to Gouveia camara percursos pedestres). Studying the sketch maps we could see that Vinho was included in both these walks. It took us a while, but we eventually found where we could join both walks. They were quite separate from one another. Unfortunately the weather forecast for the next week is rain, rain, and more rain.
We have been trying to find information about a walk that goes from Vila Pouca da Beira to no avail. Even a visit to the village was fruitless. We managed to find a Roman road that was impressive but nothing to indicate the walk, despite a sign by one of the churches indicating that there is walking in the area.
Today we managed to find a little more information about this on the Oliveira do Hospital council website. Also is a bit of information about other walks. No maps unfortunately though.
After the terrible weather that has struck Madeira it seems that 11 districts on the continent are also on yellow alert. We wonder if El Nino might be the culprit for the really wet winter and now this period of "mau tempo".
The other reason we drove up to Gouveia was to try and find a parking place for the PR2 and PR3 walks that are mentioned in a link on our "Hidden Treasures" post (links to Gouveia camara percursos pedestres). Studying the sketch maps we could see that Vinho was included in both these walks. It took us a while, but we eventually found where we could join both walks. They were quite separate from one another. Unfortunately the weather forecast for the next week is rain, rain, and more rain.
We have been trying to find information about a walk that goes from Vila Pouca da Beira to no avail. Even a visit to the village was fruitless. We managed to find a Roman road that was impressive but nothing to indicate the walk, despite a sign by one of the churches indicating that there is walking in the area.
Today we managed to find a little more information about this on the Oliveira do Hospital council website. Also is a bit of information about other walks. No maps unfortunately though.
After the terrible weather that has struck Madeira it seems that 11 districts on the continent are also on yellow alert. We wonder if El Nino might be the culprit for the really wet winter and now this period of "mau tempo".
Saturday 20 February 2010
Bread and Cake
There are little white vans that comes around the villages. Some are selling fruit and vegetables, one man sells bread and cakes.
We can get lovely fresh baguettes, rolls, and loaves from the bread man. We bought 6 bread rolls, and two slices of sponge cake for a total of 1.33 euros. The bread is always soft and delicious, and the cakes were probably the best we have tasted since we arrived. One had a really yellowy custard in it, and the other was probably cinnamon and dates.
The only problem is with these vans is that it's a bit like trying to catch the icecream van. We never know when they will appear. And we either spot the bread van when the wallet is in the house, and we don't have any loose change in our pockets, or we only notice him as he's disappearing up the exit track.
Today we were very naughty and tried one of the fresh cakes from the fridge in Ecomarche that we have been salivating over for some time. The only problem is, once we made the decision to throw willpower to the wind and buy one, we then had to pick from a very alluring choice.
We plumped for a "Bolo de Chocolate" at 3.25 euros. We felt obliged to sample this as soon as we got back to the cottage. Soft, fresh, MOIST and delicious. It will stretch to about 8 generous portions (for greedy guzzlers like us). The only thing is the inside is not chocolate, just the outer coating. But that's no criticism really as the sides are plastered with chopped nuts and it really was quite superb.
We can get lovely fresh baguettes, rolls, and loaves from the bread man. We bought 6 bread rolls, and two slices of sponge cake for a total of 1.33 euros. The bread is always soft and delicious, and the cakes were probably the best we have tasted since we arrived. One had a really yellowy custard in it, and the other was probably cinnamon and dates.
The only problem is with these vans is that it's a bit like trying to catch the icecream van. We never know when they will appear. And we either spot the bread van when the wallet is in the house, and we don't have any loose change in our pockets, or we only notice him as he's disappearing up the exit track.
Today we were very naughty and tried one of the fresh cakes from the fridge in Ecomarche that we have been salivating over for some time. The only problem is, once we made the decision to throw willpower to the wind and buy one, we then had to pick from a very alluring choice.
We plumped for a "Bolo de Chocolate" at 3.25 euros. We felt obliged to sample this as soon as we got back to the cottage. Soft, fresh, MOIST and delicious. It will stretch to about 8 generous portions (for greedy guzzlers like us). The only thing is the inside is not chocolate, just the outer coating. But that's no criticism really as the sides are plastered with chopped nuts and it really was quite superb.
Hidden Treasures
The forecast for the next few days isn't great. Rain and thunder possibly. We light the fire every night though some days we feel that we need to light it early afternoon, and on other days when the sun is out, it does not get lit until about 1800 hours. It gets dark about 1820 hours at the moment.
Yesterday we were out near Arcozelo [Gouveia]. It was a beautiful sunny day after a couple of days of rain. We walked on part of the PR3 to a group of granite rocks that had steps, and a grave, hewn into the rock. The formations of the rocks were impressive, and added to that were wonderful views and archaeology - we felt like we had found treasure.
Today, another glorious day of sunshine after a night of quite heavy rain. We went over to Fiais da Beira to the remnants of an agricultural village, consisting of approximately 75 buildings. The array of buildings are built over a granitic plateau and are still amazingly intact. It felt very special to be allowed to explore this lovely place.
The green meadows and agricultural fields, beneath the pruned grapevines, are beginning to brighten with white, pink and yellow spring flowers. At the same time, in the distance, is the stunning sight of the snow-ridden Serra da Estrela. Magnificent.
We managed to find some information about walks in and around Gouveia, ie the PR1, PR2, and PR3. A downloadable file (28 pages) is available at this link
There are more walks outlined at this link just click on the word Percursos to open the hyperlink to the listed walks.
Yesterday we were out near Arcozelo [Gouveia]. It was a beautiful sunny day after a couple of days of rain. We walked on part of the PR3 to a group of granite rocks that had steps, and a grave, hewn into the rock. The formations of the rocks were impressive, and added to that were wonderful views and archaeology - we felt like we had found treasure.
Today, another glorious day of sunshine after a night of quite heavy rain. We went over to Fiais da Beira to the remnants of an agricultural village, consisting of approximately 75 buildings. The array of buildings are built over a granitic plateau and are still amazingly intact. It felt very special to be allowed to explore this lovely place.
The green meadows and agricultural fields, beneath the pruned grapevines, are beginning to brighten with white, pink and yellow spring flowers. At the same time, in the distance, is the stunning sight of the snow-ridden Serra da Estrela. Magnificent.
We managed to find some information about walks in and around Gouveia, ie the PR1, PR2, and PR3. A downloadable file (28 pages) is available at this link
There are more walks outlined at this link just click on the word Percursos to open the hyperlink to the listed walks.
Wednesday 17 February 2010
Coja Carnival
Yesterday we went over to Coja for the Carnival due to begin at 1500 hours. The Carnival marks the beginning of Lent and takes place on Shrove Tuesday. The floats were gathering in the grounds of the Galp fuel station on the end of town we came in on, so it meant the road was blocked off and the parked cars lined the road on the outskirts.
Though spectators were gathering in groups from the Galp station onwards, we made our way to the main square to meet our friends.
Despite the rain there was a pleasant buzz in the air. A relaxed excitement.
The floats didn't make their appearance at the square until nearer 1600 hours. But then the parade lasted for at least an hour. Imagine the smell of popcorn and the sound of big bass drums, whistles, horns and trumpets. There were varied and colourful costumes, clowns, bumble bees, animals. Water bags launched from one vehicle were caught and lobbed back at the sender, much to everyone's amusement. Children in the crowd had dressed up specially for the event, dressed as princesses, clowns, gladiators. People were wearing crazy hats or wigs.
Because of the rain it was difficult to get good pictures of the floats. It was really nice to see all age groups participating and spectating. The buildings around the square had people looking from balconies and windows.
After the parade we went up to Gordon's bar and had a beer. Then Keith and Kathy were invited to the house of a Portugese friend of theirs, and we were made welcome too. We felt very honoured to be able to participate in their celebration and to receive such hospitality. We were plied with food and drink, Serra da Estrela cheese, wine, homemade bread, goats cheese, and another soft cured cheese. The meat eaters were enjoying wild boar sausages, hams, and other types of meats. After the savoury came an assortment of puddings and then the spirits to finish off. Jon tried Aguardente (a smooth and fiery, brandy tasting spirit). At 1900 hours we all traipsed upstairs onto the balcony for a wonderful view of the firework display on Coja bridge. The display lasted about 15 minutes.
All in all a wonderful day.
Though spectators were gathering in groups from the Galp station onwards, we made our way to the main square to meet our friends.
Despite the rain there was a pleasant buzz in the air. A relaxed excitement.
The floats didn't make their appearance at the square until nearer 1600 hours. But then the parade lasted for at least an hour. Imagine the smell of popcorn and the sound of big bass drums, whistles, horns and trumpets. There were varied and colourful costumes, clowns, bumble bees, animals. Water bags launched from one vehicle were caught and lobbed back at the sender, much to everyone's amusement. Children in the crowd had dressed up specially for the event, dressed as princesses, clowns, gladiators. People were wearing crazy hats or wigs.
Because of the rain it was difficult to get good pictures of the floats. It was really nice to see all age groups participating and spectating. The buildings around the square had people looking from balconies and windows.
After the parade we went up to Gordon's bar and had a beer. Then Keith and Kathy were invited to the house of a Portugese friend of theirs, and we were made welcome too. We felt very honoured to be able to participate in their celebration and to receive such hospitality. We were plied with food and drink, Serra da Estrela cheese, wine, homemade bread, goats cheese, and another soft cured cheese. The meat eaters were enjoying wild boar sausages, hams, and other types of meats. After the savoury came an assortment of puddings and then the spirits to finish off. Jon tried Aguardente (a smooth and fiery, brandy tasting spirit). At 1900 hours we all traipsed upstairs onto the balcony for a wonderful view of the firework display on Coja bridge. The display lasted about 15 minutes.
All in all a wonderful day.
Monday 15 February 2010
Spring
It's distinctly chilly today, overcast and windy, and the sun is struggling to show through. We lit the fire about one hour ago and have resigned ourselves to a "make and mend" day. It rained heavily during the night and the forecast is for more rain today but it hasn't appeared yet.
Yesterday we drove down through Penalva da Alva in weak sunshine. The mimosa trees are all in bloom and look glorious. So is spring officially here? The festa period has started again this week. We saw people in fancy dress costume, and we are meeting friends in Coja tomorrow to see the carnival floats, then at 1900 hours there will be a firework display on the bridge. Let's hope it warms up a bit, and stays dry.
We are a bit stir crazy to be out walking and exploring the mountains a bit more, but our car isn't four wheel drive, and we daren't risk going up those winding steep mountain roads unless we know it's safe. It's deceiving that while in the valleys it is relatively mild, the Serra da Estrela is swathed in snow.
A look at the Manteigas webcam confirmed our decision to stay low was the right one.
This is Manteigas just before 1300 hours today.
Yesterday we cooked ourselves a romantic meal for Valentine's Day and generally spoilt one another more than usual. There is definitely a feeling of love in the air. Spring is so sexy.
Yesterday we drove down through Penalva da Alva in weak sunshine. The mimosa trees are all in bloom and look glorious. So is spring officially here? The festa period has started again this week. We saw people in fancy dress costume, and we are meeting friends in Coja tomorrow to see the carnival floats, then at 1900 hours there will be a firework display on the bridge. Let's hope it warms up a bit, and stays dry.
We are a bit stir crazy to be out walking and exploring the mountains a bit more, but our car isn't four wheel drive, and we daren't risk going up those winding steep mountain roads unless we know it's safe. It's deceiving that while in the valleys it is relatively mild, the Serra da Estrela is swathed in snow.
A look at the Manteigas webcam confirmed our decision to stay low was the right one.
This is Manteigas just before 1300 hours today.
Yesterday we cooked ourselves a romantic meal for Valentine's Day and generally spoilt one another more than usual. There is definitely a feeling of love in the air. Spring is so sexy.
Thursday 11 February 2010
Pneus Tyres
Today the weather has been glorious sunshine. Not sure what has happened to the forecast. Last night the forecast for today was mostly rain, and this morning it had changed to say it would be cloudy mainly. And yet, it must be 15 degrees Celsius or more. It feels like a beautiful May Day in the UK. Our washing that only went out at about 10.30 this morning was bone dry by 13.30 hours.
We had to get a couple of new tyres for the car. We tried a place just off the N17 down a side street, opposite the main turn off for Oliveira do Hospital. The garage had been recommended to us by a friend.
They were already busy with changing tyres on another car when we arrived, so we just loitered in the entrance way until someone came over to see what we needed. The lady spoke a smattering of English, and with our smattering of Portugese we managed to understand one another. We had been told by someone that it comes a bit of a shock to them if you walk straight up to them and begin explaining what you want. Play it cool, be patient, and when they can they will see to you.
She asked us if we wanted new or remoulds. We explained that we wanted new, mid range cost-wise. Then she checked the tyre size, went off for a few minutes, came back and had written down the options. We could go for an Asphalt at 39.50 per tyre, or for another make, for 50.00 euros per tyre. We chose the 39.50 ones. In the UK we usually pay about £30 per tyre so we were quite content.
They instructed us to pull the car in, put it up on a ramp, and within 20 minutes we had paid up and with a friendly goodbye, we were on our way. All in all, a very painless experience.
One thing to take into account is that most of these places seem to shut down entirely over lunch. So we knew that we would either have to hit them mid morning or sometime after 1430 hours to be on the safe side.
We had been procrastinating about changing our tyres because we were a bit worried how we would get on without speaking fluent Portugese. But judging from some of the used tyres discarded at the side of the garage, ours could have lasted another 12 months! Some of them were really bald. And considering the way some people drive over here it's worrying.
While we were driving up the N17 we spotted an Express coach heading in the opposite direction, towards Lisbon. This was just after 11.00 hours. We think they were just about to do a pick up at the next village on the N17 where quite a crowd was gathered (Beira, by the turn off for Galizes). We don't know whether this is a weekly trip, or a daily one, but thought we would record it here for future reference.
We had to get a couple of new tyres for the car. We tried a place just off the N17 down a side street, opposite the main turn off for Oliveira do Hospital. The garage had been recommended to us by a friend.
They were already busy with changing tyres on another car when we arrived, so we just loitered in the entrance way until someone came over to see what we needed. The lady spoke a smattering of English, and with our smattering of Portugese we managed to understand one another. We had been told by someone that it comes a bit of a shock to them if you walk straight up to them and begin explaining what you want. Play it cool, be patient, and when they can they will see to you.
She asked us if we wanted new or remoulds. We explained that we wanted new, mid range cost-wise. Then she checked the tyre size, went off for a few minutes, came back and had written down the options. We could go for an Asphalt at 39.50 per tyre, or for another make, for 50.00 euros per tyre. We chose the 39.50 ones. In the UK we usually pay about £30 per tyre so we were quite content.
They instructed us to pull the car in, put it up on a ramp, and within 20 minutes we had paid up and with a friendly goodbye, we were on our way. All in all, a very painless experience.
One thing to take into account is that most of these places seem to shut down entirely over lunch. So we knew that we would either have to hit them mid morning or sometime after 1430 hours to be on the safe side.
We had been procrastinating about changing our tyres because we were a bit worried how we would get on without speaking fluent Portugese. But judging from some of the used tyres discarded at the side of the garage, ours could have lasted another 12 months! Some of them were really bald. And considering the way some people drive over here it's worrying.
While we were driving up the N17 we spotted an Express coach heading in the opposite direction, towards Lisbon. This was just after 11.00 hours. We think they were just about to do a pick up at the next village on the N17 where quite a crowd was gathered (Beira, by the turn off for Galizes). We don't know whether this is a weekly trip, or a daily one, but thought we would record it here for future reference.
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